A Vindication of Disorderly Women: Using Contemporary Fashion Design to Respond to and Portray the Historical Exclusion of Women From Tailoring Practice

Abstract

Women have been discriminated against and excluded from areas of clothing production throughout history. In the Early Modern period (1500-1800), “disorderly women” reacted to their exclusion from tailoring guilds by mending and altering second-hand clothing for profit, despite the legal and societal barriers they faced. Fashion designers have explored feminist theory, historicism and unruly design through their practice. This research builds on all of their work and creates a new space through a fashion design practice that merges these contexts.

This research vindicates the disorderly women by using contemporary fashion design to respond to and portray the historical exclusion of women from tailoring practice. Practice-based research is supported by historical research and material culture studies. Storytelling and visual language are used alongside the principles of unruly design as methods that inform the approach to contemporary fashion design.

While the exclusion of women from tailoring is explored through the design output, the work focuses on celebrating the resilience and creativity of disorderly women. The way we wear clothing is questioned, resulting in disorderly garments. The garments empower women by encouraging creative freedom. This research contributes to the discussions about gender equality in the fashion industry. It shows that understanding the past is important to having effective conversations about the future of the industry.