Modes of Making: Adaptable Zero Waste Patternmaking for Fashion Waste Management

Abstract

This practice-led research examines the issue of material waste within fashion production systems by utilising craftsmanship making techniques and alternative design frameworks. A foundation of tacit knowledge, personal experience and craftsmanship skills guides this sustainable fashion design practice. The research explores zero waste patternmaking to reduce textile waste through a puzzling together of pattern pieces during the making process. Zero waste methods are investigated to create adaptive garments which offer additional design opportunities to designers and wearers. This research asks the question: How can zero waste patternmaking techniques be applied to generate an alternative approach to waste management in fashion practice?

Zero waste practitioners contextually map the field of this inquiry through their patternmaking approaches and acknowledgement of the holistic nature of the design process. Reflections-of-self become visible throughout this practice, building on personal making experiences, and guided by the feminist-artwork theory of femmage, incorporating artisanal handcraft to highlight the importance of materials in the creative process. This research builds upon existing zero waste patternmaking knowledge, while providing new approaches to an adaptive garment design mode of making, within an ongoing circular collection. The developed patterns and garments become vehicles through which to share tacit knowledge and showcase acquired zero waste skills.