The aim of this practice-based research is to examine the value of a traditional approach to garment construction. It is an enquiry in response to a gradual loss of sensibility within the discipline of garment manufacture. This shift, in the present context of fast fashion’s increasing dominance, has resulted in homogenisation of both processes and garment appearances, where quality of materials and time are streamlined for cost efficiency.

This project investigates the implications of this homogenisation on the wearer-garment relationship. The research engages the craftsman-like methods of a more traditional approach in order to locate advantageous points of difference, seeking to distinguish subtleties between garment function, shape and material qualities in relation to body fit and construction techniques. The focus of the research is to uncover the value of currently under-utilised traditional approaches by examining materials and methods to offer a more sympathetic ease-of-wear. A vintage coat structure provides the practical research focus for investigating an improved wearer-garment relationship. The knowledge gained will add to the wider discussion regarding the value of fashion production techniques.